My Third Arielle Skirt from Tilly and the Buttons–Fall Edition

I just can’t get enough of the Arielle skirt from Tilly and the Buttons. So I made my third version to be a great staple for fall 🙂 I used a medium weight rust-colored corduroy from Fabric.com. It was actually leftover from a dress I’d made for a friend last year, so it worked out even better!

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This skirt is just such a flattering fit that it’s hard to resist. And I didn’t do a lining on this version so it hardly took any time at all.

I made a denim mini Arielle with brass buttons for my first version and I liked it overall, but it’s always felt slightly too big and I wasn’t sure what to do about it. But with the corduroy one I just made, I was careful when marking the spots for the button placements. The pattern recommends putting the skirt on and marking a spot for the buttons through the buttonhole opening, and while I did do that the first time around, I didn’t have the skirt on very snugly, so it ended up feeling a little loose. But this time, I made sure I held the skirt on very snugly while marking for the buttons, and it fits like a glove 🙂

Can’t wait to wear this with all sorts of cute Fall outfits!

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Oh yea and I didn’t post about my second Arielle skirt, so here it is! I made this one with a kelly green cotton twill from Fabric.com, and had a cute floral lining to go with it. Didn’t have the sizing issue I had with my denim version.

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Highlands Wrap Dress by Allie Olsen

I loved this pattern so much that I just had to make two 🙂

The first version I made was a short-sleeved maxi, using a lightweight cotton from Sew Over It. They have the best fabric!

I love the side slits on this dress and the buttons that fasten on the side so it’s not just the ties that hold it together. Perfect summer dress!

This version was mostly smooth sailing, but the waist band for the elastic ended up a little bit more narrow than it should have been, so I had to use a more narrow elastic band so it’d fit in.

I also had a little trouble matching up the side seams of the front and back pieces with the waist band since it was my first time working with elastic, and there’s a little piece of the seam sticking out on one side :/

Yellow short-sleeved maxi :)
Yellow short-sleeved maxi 🙂

The second version I made was a sleeveless midi version, with another lightweight cotton from Sew Over It.

Had no trouble with the waist band this time, woo! I was even able to make the waist slightly more fitted than the previous version I’d made, so the neckline fits a little more snugly and I think is more flattering on me.

Where I did have trouble was with the armbands! I was really trying to rush and get it done so felt really frustrated when I couldn’t get it right. I ended up with armbands that look more like ruffle sleeves. I was annoyed at first but actually think it looks pretty cute as is. Oh well!

Sleeveless midi version
Sleeveless midi version

Ruby Dress from Tessuti Fabrics

Over the weekend I finished my Ruby dress from Tessuti Fabrics. This breezy rayon challis  was on clearance from fabric.com for $6/yard. Great deal!

I got some more practice with neckline and armhole binding with this pattern. The pattern also linked to a tutorial for joining bias binding but for some reason it just was not computing in my head, so I fudged it a little bit and improvised joining the binding ends together. It’s a little messy but it’s at the bottom of the armhole anyway 🙂 I could still use some more practice with binding…one of the armholes on my dress sticks out a bit.

I also love the keyhole back opening on this dress. It got a little bunched up going around the bottom, but still looks cute!

Keyhole back opening
Keyhole back opening

This dress also looks great styled in different days. The other day it was overcast and chilly, so I wore it with black tights, tall black boots, and my asymmetrical zip black moto jacket. Also looks good with a jean jacket, or with my beige ankle buckle flats. So many ways to wear this!

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Cutest Skirt Pattern Ever: Arielle Skirt from Tilly and the Buttons!

I don’t think I will ever get tired of talking about how cute the Arielle skirt from Tilly and the Buttons is. SO CUTE. Such a flattering shape and actually pretty simple to sew.

I got this beautiful dark denim from Britex Fabrics at Union Square in San Francisco. I love how easy it is to sew with thick, sturdy fabric like this. It doesn’t move around as much so it’s easy to control as you sew.

This was also my first time sewing buttonholes! My machine came with a plastic buttonhole foot that is a bit clunky and makes it hard to see the line you’re sewing. It went fine but could use some more practice. I love the big (brass?) buttons I chose for this skirt! My partner’s mother had a collection of buttons sitting around, so I took some home over the holidays and was looking for the perfect project for them.

The Arielle skirt has an optional lining, but I decided to keep it simple and skip it. The denim I used is so thick and sturdy anyway, that is hangs nicely without a lining.

I finished this skirt fairly quickly and was ready to photograph before I knew it. One little oopsies with the photos…I was wearing the skirt on the wrong side! Buttons should be on my left 🙂 I was wondering why the button flap was sort of gaping between the buttons. Looks even cuter when worn correctly!

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I’m planning to do another Arielle skirt soon…this time in a kelly green cotton twill with a cute floral lining! Buttons TBD… 🙂

Sewing with Silk: Ella top from Liola Patterns

I found this lovely kelly green printed silk at Fabric Outlet in the Mission and thought it would be perfect for the Mimi blouse in Tilly and the Buttons’ Love at First Stitch , but I didn’t have the pattern with me at the time. I thought a yard would be plenty but it was way short of what the pattern called for.

It took some digging to find a pattern that was a good fit, but eventually I found the Ella top from Liola Patterns. It’s a pretty simple pattern, but I had several firsts with this: darts, pleats, and neckline and armhole binding. Not to mention the patience it took sewing with slippery silk. Precise cutting is really important with the binding, and it’s tricky with silk. I read somewhere that a rotary cutter is helpful, so I’ll plan to do that next time.

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The darts and pleats were pretty straightforward, and I was happy how they turned out. Binding could have been better though. I think I gave the neckline binding slightly too much slack, and it hangs down a bit in the front. And I was a little sloppy sewing on one of the armhole bindings when I was like “Get it done, get it done!”…BUT it is still pretty cute 🙂

Close up of Ella top :)
Close up of Ella top 🙂

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Sewing Updates: Invisible Zippers with Clémence Skirt and Zinnia Skirt!

It’s been a little while since I’ve posted, but I’ve been hard at work 🙂

A couple months back I finished the Clémence skirt from Tilly and the Buttons’ book Love at First Stitch. This was my first attempt at zippers! The pattern calls for an invisible zipper, and turns out that sewing an invisible zipper is not just a method of sewing, but also requires a different zipper foot and different zipper altogether. Woops!

But once I was so close to finishing the skirt I just HAD to get it done and was not about to put it off for another day, buy and figure out the new zipper and foot, so I ended up with a sort of hybrid zipper…a regular zipper sewn as an invisible zipper. But whatever, it works!

Other than, my only challenge was getting the inside of the waistband to cover the gathered seam from the skirt. Wasn’t the greatest, but at least it’s hidden inside.

Clémence skirt, before the zipper
Clémence skirt, before the zipper
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Ta-da!

My second invisible zipper attempt with Colette Patterns’ Zinnia skirt, and I’m happy to say it went much better this time! I nearly pulled my hair out trying to figure out how to use the (plastic!) invisible zipper foot, but several deep breaths and hours later, I got it working :).

I used version 3 of the Zinnia skirt, which has instructions for lining. This was also my first time sewing a lining! I was inspired by Colette’s post of sewing with eyelets and decided to give it a try. I found this beautiful eyelet/lace-ish fabric at a small fabric store on Clement Street in San Francisco and absolutely fell in love!

Beauty!!
Beauty!!

And the last important lesson learned here…ALWAYS transfer the pattern markings right away, especially with pleats! I am always lazy with this and turns out it’s best to just do it right away, and NOT after starting to sew the pieces together. I also should not have used ballpoint pen (HA!) for the markings. Since the only other marking utensil I had was white tailor’s chalk, it just seemed like the next easiest thing…luckily I bought a bleach gel pen which was able to get out most of the pen markings. But it’s still faintly there if you look closely :/ Never again!

Beautiful Zinnia!
Beautiful Zinnia!

I now have solid practice with zippers and lining! 🙂

Wiksten Tova Top :)

I’d had my eye on the Tova top from Wiksten for months, ever since I saw this beautiful version from the Craft Sessions. How simple and lovely!

I thought this top would look great in a pumpkin orange–a sort of boho chic fall top. I was thinking a burnt orange cotton with a navy blue leaf or almost paisley print would be perfect, but of course it was easier to imagine than to find. But I found this adorable orange cotton with little yellow umbrellas all over it and it was just too cute to pass up! This fabric came from the now closed Satin Moon fabrics on Clement St in San Francisco.

So I really had meant to get this done for fall, but it just didn’t happen. I actually got it cut out sometime before the holidays, but with it having several pieces to it, it just seems like it took so much more mental energy to sit down and do it.

Cutting out the Tova top
Cutting out the Tova top

But once I sat down to do it last month, it really went by pretty quickly! And what’s great is I’ve now gotten to the point where I can sew on weeknights, rather than just on the weekends. When sewing was still very new to me, it felt like it took so much more energy to work on a project, and I just couldn’t muster up that strength during the week. But with more practice it’s gotten easier, and sewing on weeknights too now helps me complete projects even faster 🙂

The biggest lesson I learned from sewing this top was that I really need to be super precise when cutting straight lines for small pieces like the cuff, collar, and the placket. When I had to turn over just a little bit of fabric and it was slightly uneven on the edge, that made my line of stitches uneven as well. Lesson learned!!

I also didn’t do a great job sewing in the inset–it was a little tricky to turn those corners nicely, and one of my corners is slightly off. I also get lazy with marking the notches, which probably would have helped me out with the inset too.

But…not bad for my first Tova!

Wiksten Tova!
Wiksten Tova!
Closer up look of my Tova top
Closer up look of my Tova top

I’ve seen photos of Tova online in plaid, and it looks adorable! I’d love to make one in plaid sometime. The dress version of Tova is super cute as well. I think I’ll wait until next fall to make a second one though 🙂

 

Cleo dress from Tilly and the Buttons!

I have to say that the Cleo dress from Tilly and the Buttons is by far my favorite sewing pattern! This dungaree dress is super trendy now, and not to mention pretty beginner-friendly.

I made my first Cleo dress back in November. I’d seen this beautiful plaid corduroy fabric at Satin Moon Fabrics on Clement Street (which sadly closed in December), and I just had to have it. As can be seen by my Pinterest board, I LOVE plaid, and this fabric made all my plaid dreams come true.

Plaid corduroy
Plaid corduroy

I had a couple bumps in the road with my plaid Cleo. With my first attempt, I had trouble matching the plaid with the front two pieces. So I ended up having to buy more fabric (which thankfully was still in stock) to re-do the front pieces. But…the second attempt wasn’t much better, so I just decided to leave it.

The second thing that gave me trouble was the curved seams on the sides. One side of my dress got a little puckered, but by that point I was too tired to re-do it, so it stayed 🙂 Overall, I think it’s pretty dang cute!

Cleo Dress, plaid corduroy
Cleo Dress, plaid corduroy

When I first put it on, I wasn’t quite sure I loved how it fit. Because it’s a pullover dress, it fits a little loosely on the sides. But my initial uncertainty may have been partly as a result of staring at it for so long while working on it, because I got over it pretty quickly 🙂 I love this as a winter outfit!

I loved Cleo so much that I just had to make another. I got a lovely mustard yellow corduroy from Britex Fabrics in downtown San Francisco. Sewing this dress went much quicker this time around, except for just one thing: for some reason the needle kept skipping stitches and the stitches were really loose! I couldn’t figure out what it was. I made sure I had a needle for thicker fabric, I adjusted the tension, I re-threaded the machine. I was visiting my family for the holidays, so I used my mom’s machine, so I thought that could be it. Finally, my mom told me she had an even thicker needle. So I tried that, and it worked! I didn’t think that the difference between my lightweight plaid corduroy and medium weight mustard corduroy would make a difference, but turns out it did. Lesson learned 🙂

Mustard yellow corduroy Cleo
Mustard yellow corduroy Cleo

And finally, I made a third Cleo dress for my friend/co-worker. We worked together to pick out a fabric she liked and figure out her measurements. It was a really fun process, and the color totally suited her. And this time, I had two Cleos under my belt and didn’t hit any bumps along the way 🙂

We love our Cleo dresses!
We love our Cleo dresses!

I could honestly have like 5 more Cleos and still not be tired of them! I also thought about doing a black corduroy Cleo, and perhaps a denim Spring version? 😉 But for now, I’m trying out some new patterns, since there’s so little time to sew all the things I want!

How Knitting and Sewing Have Helped My Mental Health <3

A couple years ago I stumbled upon a beginner’s knitting kit at a Barnes & Noble around the holidays. It was on sale and looked like a fun project to start while I had some time off from work.

Learning a new skill is daunting, and it takes some dedication and patience to really get started. So, not surprisingly, it was a few weeks before I even opened the kit. Much to my dismay, it didn’t include any instructions for actually learning how to knit. Instead, it came with a booklet of some patterns. I had no idea what any of it meant!

So I decided to refer to Youtube for video tutorials for casting on and learning the basic stitches. And I was hooked! I was giddy with excitement for learning something new, and was proud of completing even the most simple tasks. I carried my needles and orange practice yarn with me wherever I went, making nothing in particular but simply enjoying the movements of knitting.

But soon eager to make something super cool, I was dead set on learning how to knit the waffle stitch. Unfortunately it was too much too soon, and I just couldn’t get it. Frustrated, I eventually lost interest in knitting for several months.

Last fall though, I came back to knitting with renewed energy and more patience. I took things step by step and gradually built my skills by working on projects with increasing difficulty, but careful not to get too far ahead of myself. And I was hooked yet again! This time, I think it will last 🙂

I was very crafty as a child, but I somehow got away from it as I got older. I used to be chock full of DIY projects: hand sewing pillows, making pencil holders, making magazine holders. I even made a doll house, complete with handmade furniture, out of cardboard!

Once I started knitting again last fall, I feel like I tapped into my childhood energy and enthusiasm/obsession for creativity. The more I knitted, the more I wanted to knit. And I was itching to learn even more! Last winter I bought a sewing machine and took a couple sewing classes, and now I’m sewing clothes for myself too.

I’ve never really thought of myself as artsy or creative, but there’s a real art to creating patterns, combining colors,  selecting yarn and fabric, and naming/describing my Etsy products. The possibilities are endless and the world is a blank canvas waiting to be painted in whatever strokes and colors I choose.

And this creativity instills a new confidence in me. I’ve struggled with depression in the past, and anxiety remains a daily battle for me. I’ve had periods of deep depression for as long as a year at a time. The kind of depression when your whole body aches and it takes so much strength just to get out of bed in the morning. When you can’t bring yourself to eat, and when you find yourself alone every single day, alone with your irrational worries, and relieved when the day is finally over.

But it’s been almost 8 years now since I’ve been hit with a depression like that. I slowly started taking more control of my life: I got into the graduate program I wanted and moved to beautiful Madison; met the love of my life; spent a year living in the incomparable Turkey; moved to beautiful San Francisco where adventures are always awaiting; got a job that is deeply fulfilling and is so connected to the core of who I am; started seeing a therapist; surrounded myself with friends who always have my back. And now I have my crafting to keep my mind occupied and that above all, helps me feel like I have a talent.

Crafting has become my latest building block of resiliency, adding to a wall that is getting increasingly higher as time goes on. As Brené Brown mentions in “The Gifts of Imperfection,” we have the tendency to become anxious and fearful when we feel happy about something, for fear of losing it. But the trick is actually to relish the good times, because holding on to that is what will get us through the inevitable tough times that are to come. <3

Sewing with Knits: Elmira Wrap from Seamwork :)

Ever since I started sewing back in April, I’d heard that sewing with knits (versus woven fabrics) was a lot more challenging. As a result I have been avoiding patterns working with knits and had built it up in my head to be something so challenging that it would take a long time to be ready for it.

But then along came the Elmira wrap by Seamwork–I fell in love with it and decided to give it a shot. I picked out a marled gray lightweight knit from Fabric Outlet in San Francisco, where good deals are abundant 🙂

Seamwork patterns are designed to be completed in 3 hours or less, but being fairly new to sewing it takes me much longer! I’d been working on this wrap almost every day since last weekend, and finally did the finishing touches this morning. I’m so happy with how it turned out! Turns out working with knits isn’t so bad after all 🙂

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Tips that helped me

One of the biggest things that helped me was using ballpoint pins and needles–these have slightly rounded tips that help prevent the fabric from tearing.

Another helpful tip was using a zigzag stitch rather than a straight stitch, which helps prevent the seams from coming out.

Challenges and Lessons Learned

Sleeve cuffs: This pattern has sleeve cuffs that are sewn on, but I had a hard time keeping them even because my seams wouldn’t be exactly straight. The first cuff I sewed the edge of the sleeve slipped out from the seam, and when I tried to salvage it, I accidentally made the sleeve way too small. The pattern instructs you to stretch the fabric slightly as you go, but I forgot to do that. In the end I spent almost an hour taking off the cuff (I had already finished the seams!) and re-doing it. Neither sleeve cuff was perfectly even, but at least they weren’t too small anymore.

Back neckline: This was the first time I sewed with a twin needle, which is really simple and gives the garment a more professional look. I misinterpreted the directions though and folded the back neckline over just a quarter inch too much, which meant that the shoulder seams didn’t exactly match up. I ended up with small gaps on each shoulder and decided to hand stitch them. It looks a little messy but it’s not very noticeable anyway.

I love that with each new pattern I make, I learn new skills. With the Elmira wrap I not only learned to sew with knits, but also how to sew with a twin needle, and how to make a thread chain (for the button loops).

AND knowing now that I can sew with knits, this opens up so many more opportunities of patterns to try! Can’t wait!